The Indigenous Diola people of Casamance, in southern Senegal, believe that the spirits of life dwell in Le Bois Sacrés, or “The Sacred Grove.” These revered mangrove forests have long-served as sites of ritual. 

One manifestation of that spiritual world is the Kumpo, a mythical figure cloaked in dried palm leaves and known for a whirling, otherworldly dance. Emerging from Le Bois Sacrés, the Kumpo is seen as a force of renewal; a presence that gathers the community and shields it from harm.

Today, this vital, forested ecosystem is increasingly threatened by the debris of fast fashion and plastic waste that washes ashore with the tide.

Channeling the spirit of Kumpo, some African designers are reclaiming castaway clothing, breathing new life into abandoned garments or reducing waste altogether by returning to traditional techniques, working with Indigenous textiles, or combining both. In doing so, they challenge fashion’s excesses while sustaining the communities and cultural traditions that shape their work.