Photograph by Mary McCartney
Words by Daphne Chouliaraki Milner
Fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world. Responsible for producing 1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions and 92 million tonnes of waste every year, the industry sits directly beneath oil and gas as one of the biggest climate criminals of our generation. And yet, at COP28—the global climate conference that has over the last two weeks seen world leaders, diplomats, and politicians gather alongside community organizers and activists in Dubai to identify and enact solutions to the climate crisis—fashion executives were largely absent. That is, with the exception of Stella McCartney.
McCartney has long been at the forefront of the sustainable fashion movement. Since founding her namesake label in 2001, she has never used leather, feathers, fur or skin in any of her designs. Instead, she’s been partnering with startups focused on developing and scaling cruelty-free alternatives, which made up 90% of the fabrics used in her last two collections. McCartney—who staged an exhibition titled “Sustainable Market: Innovating Tomorrow’s Solutions” at COP28 to showcase 15 next-gen bio-material pioneers—has also spent two decades building her platform with the aim to educate citizens about the systemic injustices that uphold the fashion system. This includes calling for the preservation of animal rights within the industry and campaigning for greater supply chain traceability.
But, as she tells Atmos, pursuing a responsible path in an otherwise unregulated industry has not been the easy route. Opting for experimental materials is costly and complicated, and there’s still a long way to go before the brand can phase out carbon-intensive textiles—currently, McCartney uses wool and silk, which accounted for 68% of the brand’s total carbon footprint from materials. But McCartney is driven by the urgency of progress, not perfection. It’s an important lesson for an industry that has only now woken up to the fast-worsening effects of the climate crisis that’s been unfolding for years.
Below, Stella McCartney speaks with Atmos about attending COP, incentivizing responsible business practices, and why pushing for industry accountability is not an easy route.
Daphne Chouliaraki Milner
The fashion industry is estimated to contribute up to 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions. In your view, why is it crucial for fashion executives and industry stakeholders to actively participate in global climate conferences like COP28 to address this impact?
Stella McCartney
I am the first to say coming to COP28 is not the easy route; you need to have purpose and passion not only to get a seat at the table, but just to get heard at all. Especially when you’re a woman. However, if I do not represent the industry at COP28, who will?
Fashion is not an island; our industry impacts everyone, everywhere. Every second, a truck-full of fast fashion is burnt or sent to landfill. If we want to leave a better world for the next generation, we need to have a voice here calling for change—encouraging both private and public leaders to join us by investing in and incentivizing innovation, creating less and doing more with what we already have, and being kinder to our fellow creatures, humans, and Mother Earth. We have to stay positive, and proactive.
Daphne
Your delegation is advocating for policy and regulatory change. How can fashion executives and creative directors influence and contribute to these changes? And what specific policies do you believe would incentivize sustainable business practices in the industry?
Stella
I have never used leather, feathers, fur or skins since day one, and for years, I have been calling for change in the ways governments approach our vegan alternatives. Our cruelty-free innovations are often taxed 30% more than skins that come from animals. How disgusting is that?
Animal agriculture is responsible for 80% of the Amazon’s deforested areas, which has a huge impact on biodiversity as well as the release and sequestering of greenhouse gasses. A billion animals die annually for leather. Such an easy way to incentivize innovation in this space would be to remove these tariffs on vegan leather alternatives—though that is just the beginning.
“I’m here calling out my own industry, but I’m doing it in a way where I’m trying to encourage and provide a solution.”
Daphne
In line with your 2040 net-zero target and emission reduction goals, in what ways can the fashion industry collaborate with governments and policymakers to accelerate the decarbonization of the sector?
Stella
Governments and policymakers can start by putting tax breaks and benefits in place for more sustainable, circular, and cruelty-free practices. We are penalized, not incentivized, to work with vegan alternatives to leather. We need government leaders who are brave enough to step up and say no to the powerful leather, fur, and agricultural industries that are so afraid of our cruelty-free future. That is why I’m here: we need policy change, because fashion is one of the most harmful industries on the planet.
I have never used leather or fur, but that is because I had the privilege of being raised by two vegetarians and animal rights activists. So, I policed myself. Nobody else would do that. Governments need to step in and make it worthwhile for brands to do the same, or regulate them, because I can tell you after 22 years, it is not easy.
Daphne
Building a coalition of global leaders is one of your key goals. What role do you think a diverse group of stakeholders can play in further catalyzing and facilitating investments in material and process innovations—and why do you think this needs to be on the agenda at COP28?
Stella
I think my latest collaboration with Veuve Clicquot is a key example of what can happen when people from different industries, but with similar sustainable perspectives, can come together. We used the harvest by-product from Veuve Clicquot’s regeneratively grown, traceable grape harvest and innovated a new vegan alternative to leather that is on display here at my Sustainable Market. Could you imagine 10 years ago saying that a champagne Maison and a fashion house had come together to innovate a luxury material? Time is ticking towards 2030; this kind of outside-the-box thinking and collaboration is what we need more of not only at COP28, but everywhere.
Daphne
As a prominent figure in sustainable fashion, how do you believe the involvement of fashion executives and creative directors at COP28 can influence consumer awareness and behavior?
Stella
I am the only fashion designer at COP28, sadly. I think fashion leaders think they can get away with meaningfully changing their practices because there are next to no laws governing our industry. So, they don’t really think they have to be here because they’re not being called out. I’m here calling out my own industry, but I’m doing it in a way where I’m trying to encourage and provide a solution.
Positive change is possible and it’s on display at my Sustainable Market. I think the next generation of consumers and business leaders are seeing what we’ve done here and are inspired. I believe consumers are the key to everything, especially the youth. They are the ones affected most by our decisions today, but they will be the ones living through the consequences tomorrow.
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Stella McCartney on Why Fashion Needs a Seat at the Table
